Wan Long: Taking America's Bacon to Beijing

Buying American quality to sate worried chinese consumers

The Chinese character for meat looks like a hunk of flesh with ribs attached. When the Chinese use that ideogram, they mean only one kind of protein: pig. From luscious cubes of braised belly to strips of stir-fried loin, pork is so prevalent in China that it is treated as a synonym for meat itself.

It's only fitting, then, that the world's busiest pork butcher is now Chinese. Wan Long, 73, the chairman of Shuanghui International, turned a small-time state-owned plant into China's largest meat-processing company. Now a privately held firm, Shuanghui says it slaughters 15 million pigs a year and...

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