Marcella Hazan

Grande dame of Italian food

Every so often in life we get to meet people who make a difference. Marcella was one of them. I was first introduced to her at her apartment in Florida. I remember bending slightly to kiss her cheek, and in that instant, as I greeted her, I caught the most amazing smell of white truffles. I just couldn't believe that I was meeting Marcella Hazan and that she smelled of truffles!

We sat together, enjoyed some wine and ate carta di musica with bottarga, a dish I would later put on my menu at the John Dory Oyster Bar in New...

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