Prince of Copenhagen

The world's best food city has a new culinary star

Nicky Bonne for TIME

Orlando samples produce from the garden that supplies his restaurant.

With only a few hours remaining before the arrival of his first diners, Matt Orlando was still experimenting with the oat chips he planned to have waiting on the table to welcome his guests when they sat down. As a quintessential Southern Californian--with the skateboard and hip-hop collection to show for it--he could have made the chips his own by using corn or another typically American ingredient. But he had chosen Denmark as the location for Amass, his debut restaurant, and so he stirred cod roe, one of the essential elements of Danish cuisine, into the batter. He wasn't thrilled with...

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