Cuban Evolution

In the twilight of the Castro era, change brings as much skepticism as hope

Walk along La Rampa, the main drag in what used to be Havana's version of a sleek 1950s American suburb, and every other bombed-out house seems to be sprouting a sign in its weed-filled garden, a table loaded down with secondhand Barcelona Football Club T-shirts. One woman sits by a rack of pirated DVDs, while her neighbor advertises DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHS (FOR VISA OR PASSPORT). Someone has a sign up promising to repair your Rolex or Seiko watch, and a little handwritten notice in front of a crumbling terrace shows prices for coffee and orange juice (nothing else). Just a block or...

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