President or Pharaoh?

Photograph by Peter Hapak for TIME

Some things don't change. Cairo's Tahrir Square, the cradle of the Arab Spring, still mingles the smells of tear gas and roasting corn; it still feels both dangerous and festive. A year after I was here working on the 2011 Person of the Year, the Protester, there are still rival groups passionately chanting both for and against the regime. But this year the country is led by the first democratically elected leader in Egyptian history and the first elected Islamist leader in the Arab world, Mohamed Morsi.

Egypt is an ancient nation but a new democracy, and when TIME sat down...

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