Four Hours in Lisbon

Photograph by Martim Ramos for TIME

Make an afternoon of it It's surprising how much of Lisbon can be covered in a few hours, from eccentric bookstores to colorful flea markets and magnificent monuments

If you're bound for Portugal's small but sprightly Estoril Jazz Festival, staged inside Europe's largest casino from May 11 to 20, then one of the continent's most compact capital cities is but a half-hour away by coastal highway or commuter train. Starting and ending at the rail terminal of Cais do Sodré, here's a half-day tour of undulating hilltops and tram-traveled boulevards to take in the instantly intimate essence of Lisbon — a stately white city, a scholars' lair, a seafaring hub.

HOUR 1: After exiting the terminal, take the steep, cobbled...

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