If you're bound for Portugal's small but sprightly Estoril Jazz Festival, staged inside Europe's largest casino from May 11 to 20, then one of the continent's most compact capital cities is but a half-hour away by coastal highway or commuter train. Starting and ending at the rail terminal of Cais do Sodré, here's a half-day tour of undulating hilltops and tram-traveled boulevards to take in the instantly intimate essence of Lisbon a stately white city, a scholars' lair, a seafaring hub.
HOUR 1: After exiting the terminal, take the steep, cobbled...
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