The canoes slip from the dock, the morning mist still clinging to Anangucocha Lake in eastern Ecuador's Yasuni National Park. The Amazon rain forest has yet to fully awaken. Then a small squirrel monkey scurries along a branch arching over the river, followed by another and then another. Soon the trees are full of families of bounding squirrel monkeys. This is wildlife--more vibrant than I've ever seen--treating the great Amazon forest like a playpen. "There are such wonders here," says Luis Garcia, a 46-year-old nature guide and native of the region. "This is why Yasuni is a paradise."
Yasuni National Park--a...