Caps in Hand

Christina Korte

When the dishes arrive, it's clear that Café des Spores is unlike any other eatery in St.-Gilles — the boho Brussels neighborhood that already boasts plenty of distinctive places to dine. From the shiitake farci, to Sparassis-crépus-and-Comté-cheese gratin, to cèpe-and-foie-gras crème brûlée, mushrooms are the star. Philippe Emanuelli, a sommelier by training, co-founded this curious concept bistro in 2004. Emboldened by his success, today he has handed the reins over to Jamie Oliver — trained chef Nicolas Scheidt and is working to spread his passion for fungi to a wider public.

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