To Live and Die in Karachi

Rizwan Tabassum / AFP / Getty Images

Pakistani police patrol on a street during the Islamic holy month of Moharram in Karachi on Dec. 2, 2011. Security has been beefed up throughout the country in the month of Moharram to avoid sectarian violence

Karachi is doomed. Karachi is indestructible.

Drink tea with Hussein Hazari at his tiny shop in the city's old quarter, and both statements feel true. Hazari is a neat, guarded man who wears a spotless white robe and a gold-laced skullcap. He sits with his constantly beeping BlackBerry amid shelves stacked with spray paint, car polish and adhesives. Recently Hazari began selling another product: gun lubricant. "I thought it was worth a try, because weapons are so readily available here," he says.

That's an understatement....

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