Tilda: A Dispatch from Planet Swinton

Oscar winner. Fashion muse. Scottish blue blood. Highland tramper. A dispatch from Planet Swinton

Peter Hapak for TIME

Tilda Swinton

In Scotland, tourists scan loch ness in vain for a flash of silvered scale. Thirty miles northeast, in the coastal town of Nairn, a near mythical creature turns up reliably at the appointed hour. Tilda Swinton has proposed a tramp through the moorland that abuts Nairn (or Brigadoon, as she calls her hometown). She drives a mud-splashed Land Rover, and soon she's left tarmac behind and heads on to rutted country lanes. At each switchback, pheasants are startled into clumsy flight, but Swinton looks at her passenger almost as often as the road ahead. "Are we not extraordinarily lucky?" she exclaims...

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