Cheesed Off

A childhood staple becomes a fad

Grant Cornett for TIME

The melt, a high-tech restaurant chain specializing in grilled cheese sandwiches, is getting ready to make its debut in San Francisco. Customers will order ahead via a smart-phone app and pick up a sandwich cooked in less than one minute by a new gadget that sears the bread and melts the cheese at the same time. My immediate response on hearing about this latest attempt to cash in on America's grilled-cheese mania was sadness. The grilled cheese sandwich is a childhood classic, and restaurants are harvesting our nostalgia as part of their business plans. Jonathan Kaplan, creator of the Melt (and...

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