Scenes from A Revolution

A clandestine journey into Syria reveals a once cowed people defying a brutal and stubborn regime. What would it take for this to end?

Moises Saman / Magnum

Antiregime demonstrators march through the center of Hama during an early‑morning rally

The firecrackers explode just before 10 p.m. as groups of men, in twos and threes, stream out of al-Kabir mosque after prayers. The noise signals not a celebration but the start of another of the nightly demonstrations in Rastan, a town of 65,000 halfway between Homs and Hama. The organizers of the demonstrations use fireworks to alert residents who aren't in the mosque that a protest is about to begin. The men and clusters of women quickly congregate near the building that once housed the dreaded state security intelligence, across the road from the mosque. The intelligence agents abandoned their post...

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