As the stream flows down from Loch Uigeadail to the Ardbeg distillery by the sea, runoff from peat-filled fields often gives the water a chocolaty sheen. Ten, or 17, or 27 years later, it emerges from oak casks quite transformed: Scotch whisky of the palest gold, clear and shimmering, with aromas and flavors that send aficionados from Germany,...
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