Wild Rice

Forget tekka maki. Never mind negitoro. California roll? That's so five minutes ago. Here's what I want in my sushi: baby eel, snow crab, mango, coconut and cucumber.

In one roll. Purists may shudder, but in New York City, bizarro sushi combinations are as hot as jalapeño peppers (another popular ingredient). "I love sushi," says Beverly Goodman, a Manhattanite dining at the flashy Ruby Foo's, makers of the eel-and-crab roll. "But like all New Yorkers, I get bored easily. I always want to try something new."

New York chefs are happy to comply. Ruby Foo's serves up unabashedly inauthentic...

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