The Sidewalk Smorgasbord

Jason Michael Lang

No marks for décor
But for freshness and flavor, Thai street food makes the cut every time

Australian chef david thompson has a dry sense of humor, so when he describes his 370-page whopper of a cookbook as "by no means exhaustive," you take it with a pinch of salt. Actually, make that a splash of fish sauce. For this is Thai Street Food, Thompson's passionate and meticulous tribute to one of the world's great curbside cuisines. Thais not only snack between mealtimes, they snack between snacks. And who wouldn't, when almost every street is what Thompson calls a "delicious obstacle course"?

It wasn't always this way, he explains...

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