Eating Local Before It's Too Late

As regional fare gets harder to find, two new books celebrate America's culinary heritage. Squirrel mulligan, anyone?

Cranberry Island Kitchen

Whoopie pies, cakelike creme sandwiches that are possibly of Amish origin

Your culinary gain is the planet's loss. Sure, you can drive down a Virginia highway and get Philly cheese steaks, New England clam chowder, buffalo wings and St. Louis–style ribs, but it's almost impossible to find the peanut soup the Old Dominion State was famous for.

As with everything else, there are foodie progressives and foodie reactionaries, and they look at the peanut-soup problem differently. Mark Kurlansky, the best-selling author of Salt and Cod, has a new book, titled The Food of a Younger Land: A Portrait of American Food — Before the National Highway System, Before Chain...

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