The French Correction

Courtesy the Connaught

THE CONNAUGHT: Ducasse-trained Darroze is at the helm

Over the last few years, French restaurants have come to be seen as outmoded in London. In the face of competition from homegrown chefs, as well as from hip designer diners and their modern international menus, cuisine from across the Channel has not fared so well. But some big names and openings in recent months have started to win back lost ground, and a renewed appreciation for French cuisine is slowly getting under way.

In the forefront is Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex ("J.C. A.A." to his habitués), who likes to take an English...

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