IN ALASKA, THE PARTY IS ON A light-struck wilderness awes new visitors

The names are narcotic: Skagway, Unalakleet, the Hazy Islands, Turnagain Arm. Saying ''Talkeetna'' aloud clears a city man's mind of lint. Whispering ''Aniakchak'' cures nervous debility. Think ''Last month, off Ketchikan'' while futilized in a traffic jam on the San Diego Freeway, and all the other cars disappear. Zap, there they go. Last month, off Ketchikan, from an altitude of about 1,000 ft., Bush Pilot Dale Clark spotted something glinting in the water of Carroll Inlet. He pointed. ''Down there, see?'' His passenger, a sightseer from the Lower 48, saw nothing but salt water. Clark, a burly, bearded man, threw his...

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