Dubai's Great Escape

Phrases like economic boom and world's tallest skyscraper help draw millions of visitors to Dubai each year. But for many seasoned travelers, they make a trip to the city-state sound as alluring as a holiday in Hell. Dubai's breathless p.r. machine neglects to mention the construction din, monstrous traffic jams, and overpriced chain hotels that blast synthetic music by the pool.

There is, however, an oasis of calm amid all the chaos: the Maison d'Hôtes Dubai hotel. Forget aqua-aerobics, 24 hour bars and tennis on the roof (for that you'll need to go to the Burj Al-Arab). Instead,...