Pierre Celis says he has figured out how to guarantee that a beer will be a big seller: "Everybody likes water, so the nearer to the taste of water you get, the more youll sell." Mercifully, that is a finding the Belgian brewer has rigorously ignored. His beers have never sold in large quantities, but no one ever confused them with water. Celis founded two breweries during his career, piloted both to success without sacrificing quality and then sold each one to brewing giants. Now, at age 76, he has launched another brand for what he calls "the pure pleasure of...
