Tomb Evaders

Thursday, Oct. 10, 2001
When I told my friend Ivana, who works as a political analyst in Belgrade, that I wanted to visit Josip Broz Tito's grave, she scrunched up her face as if I'd opened a bottle of sour milk under her nose. "Why would you want to go there?" Ivana sniffed. I told her that I'd imagined the grave of Yugoslavia's leader from 1945 to his death in 1980 to be a Balkan Graceland of sorts. She strongly disputed the comparison of Tito to Elvis.

Other friends had similar reactions. In fact,...

Want the full story?

Subscribe Now

Subscribe
Subscribe

Learn more about the benefits of being a TIME subscriber

If you are already a subscriber sign up — registration is free!