Traditionally Trendy

So, you've hiked up the acropolis, toured the ancient Agora and struck a snapshot pose at the grounds where Pericles once preached the wonders of democracy. You've bought a lamp of Aphrodite with a clock mounted in her belly, and you've paid $8.99 for a slice of mousaka that tastes like the rubber Parthenon you picked up for the folks back home. What next? Get out, out of the tourist rat-runs and into Psirri and Votanikos. There lie the liveliest new quarters of old Athens.

Once home to the country's best craftsmen, Psirri, a honeycomb of...