Northern Exposure in Greenland

Five generations of one family smile down from photographs hanging in the small house of Pauline and Anguteeraq Kreutzmann, who have lived all their lives in Sisimiut, Greenland's second largest town after the capital Nuuk. Their sitting room is filled with stuffed seabirds, homemade bows, fishing spears and tiny hand-carved bone figures shaped like mythical creatures. Laid out on the table are their best cups and saucers — it is time for Kaffemik . Translated from the Danish as "Please come to our house for coffee," this phrase is used to welcome neighbors, friends, relatives and — increasingly — tourists into local...

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