Drive a kilometer north of the remote northeastern Australian township of Laura, in the heart of Cape York's Quinkan country, and you'll come to a desolate track. Resist the urge to ignore it it leads to one of the world's most celebrated rock-art sites. Scrawled across immense boulders and along cave walls are 30,000-year-old images of stick figures and animals such as crocodiles, snakes and tortoises, in shades of ocher. The prehistoric images were discovered in the 1960s by Percy Trezise, an artist and bush pilot. These days his son Steve, a painter and rock-art expert, occasionally leads tours around...
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