Tastemaker

HECTOR MEDIAVILLE / POLARIS FOR TIME

MAGIC TRICKS: Adrià crafts a dish of flowers and spun sugar at El Bulli food

Dedicated art lovers Franziska and Gerhard Flögel traveled from their home in Germany to a remote cove in northeastern Spain on July 2 to visit the creator in his studio. They toured his inner sanctum in appreciative silence. They marveled at his unusual materials, his precise execution, his sheer ingenuity. And then, like everyone else at El Bulli, they sat down and ate the master's work.

El Bulli may be the most fussed-over restaurant in the world, its 33-course meals the object of countless gastronomic pilgrimages, its 8,000 reservations per season snapped up...

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