The New Brew

Instead of uncorking a vintage red, Michelin-starred chefs are tapping into a long list of artisanal beers

It's a warm day in April, and the private dining room at Gramercy Tavern, one of New York City's top restaurants, is set for a tasting. Kevin Garry, Gramercy's assistant beverage director, has lined up five glasses and five bottles on the long wooden table. First, Garry pours a 2002 Schneider Aventinus from Germany. It's caramel colored, with hints of nutmeg and banana bread. Next up is a spicy Hitachino from Japan, followed by a 1998 Rogue Old Crustacean from Oregon, with sherry and port qualities. "This is the new torch holder," he says as he fills a fourth glass with...

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