India Without the Slogans

A couple of weeks ago I was on my way back to the city of Guwahati after a day's reporting in a rural part of India's Assam state when my rental car had to halt behind a long line of trucks and buses belching diesel fumes into the warm night air. The cause of the holdup: an army truck lying mangled in a roadside ditch, another victim, said one of the hundreds of onlookers, of the treacherous narrow and winding roads in this northeast corner of the country. Up ahead, soldiers were hammering steel pins into the hard earth to winch...

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