Bosphorus Bites

Heirs to a rich and varied cuisine, Turks, like Italians, are notoriously conservative about their food: when it comes to kebabs, it's Mama's way or the highway. But as non-native ingredients become more readily available and foreign cuisines gain influence, a coterie of Istanbul restaurants are reinventing Turkish food.

Tucked away in a 1903 Art Nouveau building in central Istanbul's Beyoglu district, Changa, www.changa-istanbul.com, is the granddaddy of the pack. New Zealand-born chef Peter Gordon serves Turkish food with a twist: dolma (vine leaves traditionally stuffed with rice) are wrapped around grilled halloumi and served with...

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