Tempted By the Apple

MAHENDRA SINH FOR TIME

Lobster WITH chilI AND garlic: FROM $17; Pomfret Hyderabadi: FROM $9; Crab in butter and garlic sauce: FROM $12

In one of the final pieces he wrote for the New York Times before he died last October, celebrated reporter and U.S.-based gourmet R.W. Apple Jr. listed 10 restaurants worth boarding a plane to visit. When my editors at TIME recently asked for ideas for stories on food and the way it influences societies around the world, I ambitiously suggested I visit Apple's favorites. Such a device would allow me to write about our obsession with finding great food in obscure places, I explained, while celebrating the life of one of the best writers on food of recent years—a...

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