Arabian Bites

As coreligionists, Muslim Indonesians and Moroccans share many cultural similarities, but it's a rather different story when it comes to food. For years, Indonesians have been turning up their noses at the aromatic joys of meze, kebabs and tagine, but the recent opening of three Moroccan restaurants in the capital Jakarta indicate change is underway.

"This is the closest you'll come to Morocco in the region," says head chef Sezai Zorlu of Maroush, arguably the foremost of the trio. Nestled in South Jakarta's Crowne Plaza Hotel, its giant brass doors open to reveal lavish tapestries and paintings,...