YOU MADE YOUR NAME OPENING FRENCH RESTAURANTS. WHAT PROMPTED YOU TO OPEN AN ITALIAN PLACE? I've spent a great deal of time in Italy over the past six or seven years. But my motivation was museums, not food. I went again and again to look at certain paintings. Not [Giorgio] Morandi's, oddly enough. Eating and restaurants were truly incidental at that point but became less so the more I was there. After a while, I just thought I'd return to New York and give it a go. I'd also known [my chef] Jody Williams for some time and really liked her...
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