Postcard: Saint-Gilles

For tourists, it is a perfect town of southern France. But for the French, Saint-Gilles is better known for its identity politics. Welcome to France's nationalist heartland

Stephane Remael / Oeil Public for TIME

Saint-Gilles's ethnic minorities live mainly in the segregated Sabatot housing projects.

Tourists have long admired Saint-Gilles for its ancient center: narrow streets, tightly packed stone buildings and 12th century monastery ruins. Its more recent political history, however, has given this Languedoc town a kind of ill fame across France. In 1989, Saint-Gilles became the first town to elect a mayor from the extreme-right National Front party. The National Front leader, Jean-Marie Le Pen, a perennial loser in presidential elections, has consistently placed first in Saint-Gilles. In short, the town has voted for the kind of xenophobic zealotry that for many years was disavowed by polite French society. But the first round of...

Want the full story?

Subscribe Now

Subscribe
Subscribe

Learn more about the benefits of being a TIME subscriber

If you are already a subscriber sign up — registration is free!