Lustrous Liquid

There's cognac, and then there's cognac. The emphasis is on the latter at Domaine du Grollet, the family estate of cognac maker Rémy Martin outside Cognac in southwestern France. In one of its aging cellars, rows of tierçons (ancient oak barrels) hold eaux-de-vie (twice-distilled white wine that acquires its amber color from the barrel) for the 40-100 years it takes to attain the opulent qualities of its premium cognac, Louis XIII de Rémy Martin, which retails for around $1,400 a bottle. To be labeled a cognac, as opposed to a mere brandy, the eau-de-vie must come mainly from three types...

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