There's cognac, and then there's cognac. The emphasis is on the latter at
Domaine du Grollet
, the family estate of cognac maker Rémy Martin outside Cognac in southwestern France. In one of its aging cellars, rows of tierçons (ancient oak barrels) hold eaux-de-vie (twice-distilled white wine that acquires its amber color from the barrel) for the 40-100 years it takes to attain the opulent qualities of its premium cognac, Louis XIII de Rémy Martin, which retails for around $1,400 a bottle. To be labeled a cognac, as opposed to a mere brandy, the eau-de-vie must come mainly from three types...
