The place is packed, but there's a feel-good vibe, common to big, successful events. Like at any popular attraction, there are lines for everything: snack bars, restrooms, ticket counters. The air is even filled with the occasional scream or shriek of delight. A sold-out pop concert? An amusement park? No, it's London's Tate Modern, the world's busiest modern-art museum. The draw right now (and the source of those screams): the seventh annual commission to grace the Turbine Hall, the huge open seven-story interior of the former London Electricity power station. This year, German artist Carsten Höller has constructed Test Site, a...
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