"A kitchen never stops evolving — it will always be a place where art is created," says Belgian chef Joeri Schreurs. That's the sort of culinary chatter you might expect to hear in the world's dining capitals — but Koh Samui?

Once upon a time, the only foods associated with this backpacker destination were hallucinogenic-mushroom omelettes, street-corner noodles and

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nginx/1.14.0 (Ubuntu) barroom burgers. But today, the island off Thailand's east coast is heading upmarket . Slick new resorts are luring older, more affluent travelers, and in their wake has come an army of chefs and entrepreneurs, hoping...