Paul Newman knows what he wants. so when the legendary actor decided to create a top-notch restaurant adjoining the Westport Country Playhouse — the renowned

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nginx/1.14.0 (Ubuntu) Connecticut theater run by his wife, actress Joanne Woodward — he had ideas for what one should see, smell and taste. One architect sketched plans for a stark space, all stainless steel and alabaster white. "Paul flipped out!" says chef Michel Nischan. "He wanted very country and very warm."

And so a homey waft of vanilla greets you as you walk into the barn-like Dressing Room. There are...