During the apartheid era, South African wine was controlled by a government monopoly that set rules on viticulture that were every bit as strict as those in France. But in the last decade and a half, the industry has been essentially reborn as it has rushed to embrace the global market. The old monopoly has gone, and producers have replaced over 40% of the nation's vines — ripping

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nginx/1.14.0 (Ubuntu) out the white grapes long favored for domestic consumption and planting a wide range of reds for export. And they've learned the hard way how to improve marketing and respond to...