Why China Isn't Hitting The Bottle

It's shortly before 11 p.m. on a mid-September Monday, and Arnaud Mirey is preparing for the grand opening of VIN, a high-end wine shop featuring the finest offerings from Bordeaux. On the second floor of the shop, against the wall in a big glass display case, sit 40 of the great wines from the region, including a 1985 Château Margaux[an error occurred while processing this directive] that's on sale for a mere $1,487.50. Asked if wine is now certifiably hot in China, Mirey, the former sommelier at Petrus, a splashy French restaurant in Hong Kong's Island Shangri-La hotel, grins and says, "Oh...

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