Why China Isn't Hitting The Bottle

It's shortly before 11 p.m. on a mid-September Monday, and Arnaud Mirey is preparing for the grand opening of VIN, a high-end wine shop featuring the finest offerings from Bordeaux. On the second floor of the shop, against the wall in a big glass display case, sit 40 of the great wines from the region, including a 1985 Château Margaux[an error occurred while processing this directive] that's on sale for a mere $1,487.50. Asked if wine is now certifiably hot in China, Mirey, the former sommelier at Petrus, a splashy French restaurant in Hong Kong's Island Shangri-La hotel, grins and says, "Oh...

Want the full story?

Subscribe Now


Get TIME the way you want it

  • One Week Digital Pass — $4.99
  • Monthly Pay-As-You-Go DIGITAL ACCESS$2.99
  • One Year ALL ACCESSJust $30!   Best Deal!
    Print Magazine + Digital Edition + Subscriber-only Content on TIME.com

Learn more about the benefits of being a TIME subscriber

If you are already a subscriber sign up — registration is free!