The sun is setting as Alfred Tesseron finishes his tour of the Château Pontet-Canet, which is perched on a hill above the legendary Bordeaux wine village of Pauillac. He has talked proudly about how his father bought the château 30 years ago. He has driven his electric cart along the neat rows of vines and pointed out some of his big recent investments: the state-of-the-art water recycling

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nginx/1.14.0 (Ubuntu) system, the new storage and bottling barn and the twin rows of conical fermentation vats. Now comes the moment of truth. Standing in his refurbished tasting room, he picks up a glass...