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A mixture of relief and surprise will accompany your arrival at Hong Kong's Restaurant 131, tel: (852) 2791 2684. Relief because finding it [an error occurred while processing this directive] involves reaching a remote village that even locals won't have heard of. Surprise because what awaits you when you finally get there is a dream of southern France, not a slice of southern China.

Complete with manicured lawns, shuttered windows, carriage lamps and oil paintings, the reservation-only Restaurant 131 has become one of Hong Kong's most sought-after dinner venues. Actor Jackie Chan has been known to book the whole restaurant,...

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