ANTHEE CARASSAVA, TIME correspondent I would start off with a stroll through the meandering streets of the ancient city to the foot of the Acropolis to catch a performance at the Herodus Atticus theatre . Whatever the show, it's worth soaking up the dramatic ambience. I'd then dine at Varoulko downtown for a platter of baby calamari sautéed in basil sauce and a dessert of fruit soup and cinnamon ice cream.

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nginx/1.14.0 (Ubuntu) You can burn it off afterward by bopping and bouncing among Athens' chichi socialites at Balthazar in the city center. But if there's a full moon,...