Spiritual Refreshment

If the curtains drawn against the daylight didn't ring a warning bell, the grilles covering the windows should have. But after 300 km in the glare of the Western Australian sun, the only thing to do is ditch the car, head for the nearest pub and dive into a frosty beer. Dive is the word. Up the steps, through a wooden door into a neon-lit room with battered furniture, dog racing on a couple of TVs, a pool table in an alcove illuminated by the cold blue light used in public toilets to discourage intravenous drug users.

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