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With its gridlocked traffic, appalling shantytowns and intermittent threat of a coup d'?t, Manila is not the easiest city to be in. You have to take time to discover its pleasures. But your search will be worth it if it leads you to the intoxicating delectation that is
halo-halo
. In Tagalog,
halo-halo
means "mix-mix" and that's exactly what this luridly colored dessert is: cooked fruit, candy, sweetened pulses, sugared cereals, ice cream, jelly?in fact, whatever confectionery comes to hand and in foolhardy quantities, thrown together in a vast bowl with shaved ice and milk. The resulting agglomeration really ought to come...