ALL CHANGE: Malls are springing up across Russia, like this in Yekaterinburg
There are no oil wells in the Russian town of Kaluga, no gold mines and no rich mineral deposits. In fact, until recently, there was very little in this town (pop. 345,000) other than some run-down farms, a distillery that produces mediocre vodka, an assortment of metalworking shops, a big statue of a Soviet rocket-science pioneer and a T-34 wartime tank monument on the main road into town that still bears the inscription, "For Stalin and the motherland."
But these days, here in provincial Russia, a three-hour drive from Moscow, something is stirring. The potholes on Lenin...
