The French Resistance

RODOLPHE ESCHER for TIME

INSIDE CHANCE: By feeding his flock indoors, Laffitte hopes to protect them

Raising ducks and chickens in the fresh air is a rooted way of life in the Landes region of southwestern France, where foie gras is the highest expression of both culinary excellence and regional identity. The Laffitte family has been in the poultry trade for the better part of a century, and neither chicken farmer Michel, 50, nor his duck-raising nephew Stéphane, 32, is about to accept that the avian-flu virus could augur the end of a tradition. But like poultry farmers everywhere in France, the Laffittes feel as if they are fighting two battles these days. And both their opponents...

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