Bohemia's Bohemia

A bit bored with Prague's overwhelming period-film beauty? Just a 15-minute tram ride from the city center lies Zizkov, a district for those who fancy an atmosphere better suited to an indie film. Slightly seedy, bohemian and proud, Zizkov is a dynamic neighborhood with a blue-collar past and a middle-class, cosmopolitan future.

If Zizkov was an organism, beer would be its blood and Borivojova Street its main artery — it's home to about two dozen bars and pubs. The sounds of live rock, punk, blues, country and Old Prague accordion pour from open windows on summer nights. And...

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