Paris Bureau Chief, TIME
Stroll around the hip Canal St. Martin and drop in at Le Verre Volé (67 Rue de Lancry) for artisanal wine and whatever simple, wondrous dish is on the blackboard. To sample Paris' jazz scene, walk to La Fontaine (20 Rue de la Grange aux Belles), where the music is free. For a safer bet, there are the Rue des Lombards clubs near Chatelet, where one can catch Paris originals like Emmanuel Bex, who takes the Hammond organ to unknown registers.
Alix Le Bobinnec