Eastern Promise

When it comes to Asian grape wine, many of us are hard-pressed to name as many as one or two labels. Those who dine frequently at Chinese restaurants may be familiar with brands like Great Wall or Dynasty. And the steady progress of Indian cuisine from takeaway fodder to the dainty, ghee-free offerings of designer restaurants has also brought the name of Dindori Reserve—a decent Shiraz from India's Sula vineyards—to greater notice. But what about other Eastern bottlings?

In tandem with Asia's ever-growing levels of wine consumption, the last two decades have seen a surge of interest in...

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