The Delights of Delhi

Delhi continues to be a frustration for lovers of architecture. With its eight centuries of grand mosques, emperors' tombs and ruined forts, it has an architectural heritage to rival that of great imperial cities like Istanbul and Rome. Yet anyone who has tried to find the relics of Delhi's glorious past will tell you of the horrible difficulties set in their path by the city's present squalor.

Most of Delhi's old mosques and tombs are tucked away deep inside sprawling modern suburbs and slums. The city is growing so fast and haphazardly that maps are often outdated and...

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