The Kaleidoscopic Flair Of Fez

The hilly, serpentine streets of Fez seem like passages to nowhere. Yet every new turn in the 8th century Moroccan city's crowded alleys leads to surprises: a glimpse of intricate architecture, a stunning historic mosque or the shop of a local artisan peddling his handcrafted wares. After a day just following your nose — and fending off the smiling but insistent merchants — it's rejuvenating to return to a home base that is secluded from the commotion, yet infused with the city's imperial grandeur.

Your best chance of finding that is at a riad, one of the converted...